Author Archives: Edward and Paula

As we approached Bari, the olive trees started resembling what they would look like if Botero sculpted them, still knobby and gnarly but more rotund.  We finally reach the Adriatic Sea once again to walk along an 8 km seaside promenade to the center of Bari, a city whose verve, energy and vitality is aContinue reading “Pope to Puglia Day 30 and 31 Bitonto to Bari – 24km Bari to Mola di Barin – 25 km”

More olive tree grand dames along the straight and flat-ish Via Traiana.  We arrive in Bitonto early enough to pause for an aperitivo in the piazza by the Duomo, a magnificent 12th century Romanesque church with impressive arcades supporting an extensive loggia along its entire length.  The front façade projects structural dignity though the detailsContinue reading “Pope to Puglia Day 29 Ruvo di Puglia to Bitonto – 26 km”

A long day on the Via Traiana, the old Roman road that connected Benevento to Brindisi, as straight a road as the Romans knew how to build.   We walk through olive groves of century-old trees serenely splayed like reclining royalty on manicured fields.  After a while, the monotony of tree after tree becomes soothing, aContinue reading “Pope to Puglia Day 28 Andria to Ruvo di Puglia – 29km”

The mountains are behind us, a lasting memory of beauty and testament to endurance. Some of you have mentioned being reminded of the Sound of Music and Julie Andrews as we described our ascent.  Trust me, Julie Andrews isn’t going to get your ass up that mountain.  You need the heart thumping, foot stomping, legContinue reading “Paula’s Weekly Summary: Pilgrim’s Progress into Week 5”

We left the mountains to return to the “tavaliere”, the flat-ish plain between the Apennines and the Adriatic, and the main Via Francigena route.  Our path over the last 2 days mostly has been through olive groves and vineyards.  Miles and miles of them.  The olive trees, gnarly and knobby, hardly resembling trees at all,Continue reading “Pope to Puglia Day 26 and 27 Cerignola to Canosa di Puglia – 20 km Canosa di Puglia to Andria – 25 km”

Today we crested the Gargano, the last mountain range we cross on the Via Francigena.  Since we started in Canterbury we crossed 4 ranges: the Jura, the Alps, the Apennines (2x) and now the Gargano.  We walked 1,421 miles and climbed 158,579 ft.   We have another 400 miles to go before we reach the tipContinue reading “Pope to Puglia Day 25 San Giovanni Rotondo to Monte Sant’Angelo 12 km”

In San Marco in Lamis, Antonio delivered a 15-minute master class on the history of the area.  The Longobards, who were probably from Saxony, swept down into Italy in the 6th century because they heard about the temperate climate, good food, fine wine and the thermal baths.  They Christianized one of their pagan gods toContinue reading “Pope to Puglia Day 24 Stignano to San Giovanni Rotondo – 22 km”

The valley opens before us like a puddle spreading from an overflowing bathtub.  Row after row of olive trees and vines for most of the 28 kms to San Severo which is a small but charming town that was sealed tight for the 25th of April, a national holiday celebrating Italy’s victory over the GermansContinue reading “Pope to Puglia Day 22 and 23 Lucera to San Severo – 28 km San Severo to Santa Maria di Stignano – 22 km”

We continue to avoid criminal behavior, in fact, we have been seriously pursuing good judgement.  We do not want to lose our baby-sitting privileges when we return home.  Two examples of this new virtuous life: 1) when we enter heavily trafficked roads we remove our ear pods, a pair of which we share so weContinue reading “Paula’s Weekly Summary Pilgrim’s Progress into Week 4”

The paneficio (bakery) was bustling this morning at 8 am with people milling about cheered by the aroma of freshly baked bread. It’s the smell of home, family, a good meal and a warm fire.  While waiting for our focaccia, we said hello to two young men whom we had seen back in Benevento. WeContinue reading “Pope to Puglia Day 20 Troia to Lucera – 18 km”