Author Archives: Edward and Paula

Our last day in the open fields as tomorrow we cross the Rome GRA and walk through the Rome suburbs and finally to Vatican City. The scenery looks amazingly like the one we swept through in Pas-de-Calais in France at the beginning of the walk. Fields of tall wheat, the pungent smell of cow pasturesContinue reading “P2 Stage 37 Campignano Romano to La Storta – 25 km”

I am feeling very emotional as I consider our walk into St Peter’s Square tomorrow concluding this wonderful adventure. When we began our walk there was no thesis or hypothesis; no demons to slay or angels to recruit, just an ambitious walk with Edward. As simple as that: 1,375 miles, 16 weeks, 4 countries, 3Continue reading “My Big Fat Via Francigena Final Weekly Summary”

A walk through the endless hazelnut orchards. Why so many hazelnut orchards, I asked my all knowing companion. Nutella, Paula replied, a one word response that explained the whole enterprise. And so it went on, row after row, field after field, hill after hill. I only thought of kids’ happy smiling faces smudged with brownContinue reading “P2 Stage 36 Sutri to Campignano Romano 27km”

A very pleasant walk today through hazelnut orchards and along wooded paths criss-crossing a gurgling stream with some elevation gain at first and then gently undulating. We are struck by the random Roman ruins we pass, remnants of aqueducts and a fully preserved 2nd century amphitheatre cut out of tufa rock that in any otherContinue reading “P2 Stage 35 Vetralla to Sutri 28 km”

Before leaving Viterbo we walked through the older, “historical”, neighborhood, and glad we did. Much of it sits on top of large rectangular Etruscan boulders and houses 11th and 12th century structures as well as the House of Popes where several 13th century Popes lived and which somehow survived the allied bombing in 1944. TheContinue reading “P2 Stage 34 Viterbo to Vetralla 22 km”

At Montefiascone we had dinner with dear friends Jacques and Betsy. Betsy had just finished a rehearsal in Acquasparta and Jacques shared many stories about his cycling the Via Francigena, including over the Alps and up to Radicofani which he agreed was a monster. The walk today was along the old Via Cassia, dating toContinue reading “P2 Stage 33 Montefiascone to Viterbo 18 km”

Relatively easy day walking the rim of Lago Bolsena through a mostly shaded national park well provisioned with water and park benches, the essentials in life. Other than the steep climb to the center of Montefiascone moderate inclines, undulating hills enlivened by panoramic views of Lago Bolsena sparkling below us. This is a dramatically differentContinue reading “P2 Stage 32 Bolsena to Montefiascone 18km”

Beautiful walk to Lago Bolsena. As we crested the rim of the crater that holds the lake at San Lorenzo Nuovo we were struck by the beauty of this unspoiled gem. One of our friends describes it as the best kept secret in Italy. He may be right. We stayed at a hotel on theContinue reading “P2 Stage 31 Acquapendente to Bolsena 22 km”

Another wonderful week which started with water elements, a raging river complete with a water fall. I was surprised by the method provided for crossing this river: so, there were 2 parallel ropes anchored in the river about 3 ft apart, submerged under the water was a line of stones. The idea is hold theContinue reading “Weekly Summary My Big Fat Via Francigena”