Author Archives: Edward and Paula

A welcomed shorter walk marred only by long sections along the Via Cassia which is heavily trafficked. As we moved out of Tuscany into Lazio we noticed a marked degrade of the trails, as though weed whackers have yet to be discovered. But the walk through the Val di Chiana is beautiful. We spent muchContinue reading “P2 Stage 30 Ponte a Rigo to Acquapendente 15 km”

These 2 phases are usually combined with the stop in Radicofani instead of Ponte Riga but we decided to break in Gallina so we could approach Radicofani in the morning rather than at the end of the day. Reaching Radicofani (with the accent on the “fa” like former Italian PM Fanfani) entails a brutal 3000Continue reading “P2 Stage 28 and 29 San Quirico D’Orcia to Gallina 16 km and Gallina to Ponte Riga 26 km”

One hates to complain about the weather but walking in 90 degree heat for 5 hours with significant elevation gain will change your perspective. The heat just saps the energy out of you. When we finally arrived at San Quirico D’Orcia we were spent. The journey, however was spectacular. In the heart of Montalcino country,Continue reading “P2 Stage 27 Buonconvento to San Quirico D’Orcia 24 km”

We enjoyed Siena immensely, touring the Duomo early in the morning before the crowds, pausing for some time to enjoy Michelangelo’s sculpture of St Paul set without fanfare or announcement by one of the side altars. The Duomo is spectacular, a testament to the engineering and artistic prowess of 12th century Sienese. We then retiredContinue reading “P2 Stage 26 Siena to Buonconvento 32 km”

The ascents and descents roll along over white roads and, at times, muddy trails in the forests. We finished listening to Tim Snyder’s Bloodlands which we recommend to everyone who wishes to better understand the war in Ukraine. The contrast between the history of mass killings by Hitler and Stalin and the breathtakingly beautiful sceneryContinue reading “P2 Stage 24 Strove to Siena 27km”

We are in Chiantishire, greeted at every turn by “Bion Journo” or “Bionah Sayrah”. San Gemignano was a shock at first, throngs of tourists fighting over their slice of pizza “What’ s on the Putinaceca” and “Can I have that without the anchovies.” But as evening came and the town empties out we could appreciateContinue reading “P2 Stage 22 and 23 Gambassi Terme to San Gemignano 22km, San Gemignano to Strove 27km”

Another wonderful week. This time our wanderings brought us to Tuscany. The week’s weather has been wet, not a big problem for us, we don our raincoats and our waterproof boots, however the puddles linger and paths remain slippery and muddy and more challenging for days. My trekking strategy is to follow the exquisite choreographyContinue reading “My Big Fat Francigena Weekly Summary”

All day we walked around in a renaissance landscape painting, replete with undulating paths lined with cypresses, Roman pines, vineyards and wheat fields. If serenity can manifest itself on the ground we walk, we can be said to have moved through the most serene and tranquil reality imaginable. Paula called it a caricature of itself,Continue reading “P2 Stage 21 San Miniato to Gambassi Terme – 27 km”

We walked along parts of the original cobble-stoned Via Francigena. In the rain we ran into two French women, who weren’t inclined to return a greeting, a German couple who were well attired for a hike but were using paper maps and a lone Italian fellow who was lollygagging along the the trail all asContinue reading “P2 Stage 20 Altopascio to San Miniato 35 km”