Author Archives: Edward and Paula

We did not roll into Lucca until after 7 pm so we had just a brief rest there. We will return A mild day along flat terrain. We are so far from all the goings on in the world that the passing of Berlusconi only brought to minds my elderly aunt’s joke that when heContinue reading “P2 Stage 19 Lucca to Altopascio 21km”

For the first time we took the wrong turn and it was a doozy. Not just more kms and altitude gain, but walking across the face of a mountain that 2 years ago suffered a devastating fire. Stepping through the remaining detritus was apocalyptic, nightmarish. Deep rivulets were carved into the path exposing slippery rocksContinue reading “P2 Stage 18 – Camaiore to Lucca 26km”

I have decided to rename my weekly summary to reflect the abundance of delicious food we are enjoying along the way. A great second week. We left the rice fields of the valley for the gorgeous mountains of the Apennines. The CISA pass, a boogey man for us for some time, has been conquered. NowContinue reading “Weekly Summary of my Big Fat Francigena”

Much of the day walking above the Ligurian coastline through charming towns, notably Pietrasanta, a remarkable medieval village brimming with sculpture, much of it marble but some bronze such as the Centurion by Botero. We lingered in Pietrasanta for lunch, in front of its large Duomo, a marble palace, before walking the last 10 kmContinue reading “P2 Stage 17 Massa to Camaiore 26km”

Catching up on 2 very similar stages along the Ligurian coast. Aulla to Sarzana was short but included 2 very steep ascents and even steeper descents. It was all worth while when we arrived at the surprisingly captivating Sarzana, a small but meticulously well preserved medieval town where good living is practiced 24×7. The DuomoContinue reading “P2 Stage 15 and 16 – Aulla to Sarzana, 17 km; Sarzana to Massa, 30km”

Don Lorenzo was sitting, pensively, on a cement bench outside the doors to the unassuming Chiesa della Santissima Annnunziata on the outskirts of Pontremoli. “Can we get our pilgrim passports stamped here?” “Yes, but we have a problem”, he answered, “we have a pigeon in the church.” And so began an hour dissertation on theContinue reading “P2 Stage 14 Pontremoli to Aulla – 32 km”

We made it across the Apennines! This is the third mountain range we cross on the VF, the others being the Jura mountains in France and the Alps. We walked through the CISA pass, a modest 4,000 ft, buoyed by some of the most spectacular scenery of the whole trip. The whole trek today wasContinue reading “P2 Stage 13 – Berceto to Pontremoli – 32km”

I would like to offer my evaluation/observation on yesterdays’s mud bath, photo was included. I rarely use the word epoch unless lunch with Hugh and Sineade. However, yesterday was EPOCH, the rain was absolutely biblical coming in all directions and unrelenting. We, at one point, sought refuge in a roadside shrine. We opened the smallContinue reading “Addendum to Stage 12 from Paula”

Our accommodations for the night were at the Cassio hostel which was empty except for one other pilgrim, and stout Dutch lady who commented on the terrible weather, appropriate for someone from Amsterdam. The hostel was austere but comfortable. Felt like a college dormitory Out trek today is short but with very steep climbs andContinue reading “P2 Stage 12 Cassio to Berceto 11km”

We are in or on the Apennines. Stunning panoramas on all sides if only it weren’t cloudy and by afternoon foggy and rainy and by later in the afternoon muddy and slippery. We trudge on encouraged by a chorus of encouraging words. Me: how you doin? Paula: STRONG! Paula: How are you doing? Me: STRONG!Continue reading “P2 Stage 11 Fornovo di Taro to Cassio 33.8 km”