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Beautiful walk through the forests of Haut-Marne.  I can understand why Sigeric wanted to do this walk: stop by the Boulangerie early in the morning for the day’s provisions; pause before a church, in the shade of a post oak, across from the Mairie for lunch; a cold beer on the terrace of a restaurantContinue reading “Clairvaux to Chateauvillain – 25km”

Bar sur Aub rests on the banks of the Aub, languorously calling back to a time when it was a center of commerce for the champagne region. The relatively short walk to Clairvaux was along some of the prettiest paths we have walked to date, over gently rolling hills through the last of the champaignContinue reading “Bar sur Aube to Clairvaux – 14km”

Chavanges, a spit of a town, nurtured us.  Our gracious hosts Agnette and Jean Francois prepared a delicious meal of lamb stew and potatoes dauphine after which we retired to a restful sleep.  Brienne le Chateau, a town that boasts Napoleon found his identify at the military school there and has a Chateau and museumContinue reading “Chevanges to Brienne le Chateau – 28 km”

As we move into Week 5 I can report we are feeling Strong! However, occasionally I am reminded of a slogan from the window of a tattoo and piercing salon – “you bet it hurts.”  Additionally as we are trudging along my mind turns to Segric, the Serious as he is known in history. Segric,Continue reading “Sequin to Sackcloth Tour Moves into Week 5”

We walked off piste today to shorten what would otherwise have been a 35km day. This is a walk, not penance.  The secondary country roads are not much traveled and go through pleasant towns.  We were passed by two guys riding in a maroon convertible 2-chevaux with leather suitcases strapped to the back traveling notContinue reading “Vitry le Francois to Chevanges – 24 km”

We can’t get away from WW1. Every town and village have a memorial to the fallen during the Great War.  What we need is a daily, 5-minute blaring siren to remind us of the futility and unspeakable horror of war.  We are listening to G.C. Meyer’s A World Undone as we walk through fields whereContinue reading “Chaussee sur Marne to Vitry le Francois – 22km”

Our walk took us along the Canal Lateral a le Marne, a shaded, straight gravel path with comfy benches every km or so.  We are in the center of Champagne region.  The signs of Champagne’s bounty are everywhere: elegant cathedrals, stately homes, shops, restaurants.  The Harley Davidson rally in the center square came with well-groomedContinue reading “Trepail to Chalons en Champagne – 28km”

High 90s under the hot sun.  We take the heat and sun seriously with frequent water stops. Fortunately, the path takes us into the Reims regional natural park, a long stretch deep into cool woods, where the random fallen log makes for an easy resting stoop. But we arrive at Trepail in a blaze ofContinue reading “Reims to Trepail – 24 km”

Some pilgrim followers have asked about hotels and food.  Accommodations.  Except for our 2-night rest stops, we stay at pilgrim hotels, 2- or 3-star locations, some even have closets.  While humble, they are generally comfortable or at least appear that way at the end of a long day walking; we have been disappointed only onContinue reading “Hermonville to Reims – 14 km”

We crested a hill and all at once, as if stepping onto a new world, the landscape changed from golden fields of grain to neat green rows of vines stretching to the horizon   We are in Champagne region.  Hermonville, like many wine region towns, is orderly and clean with a well-preserved Romanesque 12th century churchContinue reading “Corbeny to Hermonville – 21 km”