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Three relatively uneventful and easier days, first walking along orchard groves, artichoke fava bean fields and fruit orchards, then by the sea in the Gulf of Gaeta.  The path from Fondi to Itri is on the old Roman road, the Appia Antica, still navigable though probably not on a bicycle.  The Aurinci mountains, part ofContinue reading “Pope to Puglia Day 7, 8 and 9 Fondi to Itri – 19km Itri to Formia – 15 km Formia to Minturno – 20 km”

The wildebeest and zebra are back!  The wildebeest offering guidance and security, the zebra expanding an incredible collection of ceramic pieces, porcupine quills, dead bugs (if travel sturdy) and rusty artifacts.  Spoiler alert: all suitable for gifting. This first week has been a baptism by fire.  It started on a lavish note: the bathtub inContinue reading “Pope to Puglia Paula’s Weekly Summary: The Wildebeest and Zebra are Back”

As we were getting the pilgrim’s stamp at the municipal center in Terracina, we met the mayor, a dapper looking man wearing jeans, a tattered leather motor jacket, a scarf and sunglasses who seemed very busy.  His predecessor was arrested last year for granting public beach licenses to commercial establishments in return for a tip. Continue reading “Pope to Puglia Day 6 Terracina to Fondi – 25 km”

We walked on the Via Appia, a road as straight as an arrow, by canals that drain the Pontine Marshes. The land is flat, for ages home to deadly malaria that scourged visitors, especially in the summer months. Mussolini drained the marshes in the 1930s and gave the land to people from the north toContinue reading “Pope to Puglia – Day 5 Abbazzia di Fossanova to Terracina”

We are falling into familiar patterns.  Edward worries about logistics, navigation, supply lines, conquering the next hill, destinations.  Paula collects ceramic shards, some of which may be the remains of Etruscan urns, porcupine quills and, recently, parts of concertina wire fencing whose significance will remain unknown.  After 9 hours of walking, at km 28 ofContinue reading “Pope to Puglia – Day 4 Sermoneta to Abbazzia Fossanova 28 km”

A 9-hour day, longer than expected, through olive groves, by a 1st century Temple of Hercules and with several steep ascents, but Sermoneta proved worth it.  This well-preserved medieval town owes its place in art and culture to the Caetani family who in the 12th century built an elegant castle around which the town grew.Continue reading “Pope to Puglia – Day 3. Giulianello to Sermoneta 28km”

Day 2 Castel Gandolfo to Giulianello – 24km We left the papal palace and the church of St. Thomas of Villanova, the latter designed by Bernini, to walk around Lago Albano and over the crater’s edge to Lago di Nemi and its eponymous town which one enters through 20-foot-thick walls to be greeted by theContinue reading “Pope to Puglia”

Day 1 Rome to Castel Gandolfo: 26 km We departed Rome from Piazza Navona.  We walked around the Pantheon, passed the Roman Forum, around the Colosseum, the Arch of Titus, the Baths of Caracalla, through the gate of Saint Sebastian and onto the Appia Antica which we followed for 18 km over the grooved basaltContinue reading “Pope to Puglia”

We walk, again, this time from Rome to Santa Maria di Leuca in Puglia, at the very tip of the heel of the Italian peninsula. It is referred to as the Via Francigena del Sud (VFS) though it is not part of the original Via Francigena pilgrimage route, the trek taken by Archbishop Sigeric ofContinue reading “Pope to Puglia”

Our final stage. We walked through the Roman suburbs, over Monte Mario, Mons Gaudii, and finally entered St Peter’s Sq. We crossed paths with Giannni, aka Pavia, who greeted us saying “You look like a work of art. Are you feeling emotional?” he asked in typical Italian fashion where emotions and feelings are always atContinue reading “P2 Stage 38 La Storta to Rome, 28km”