We staggered, stumbled and slumped into Ornans after a ridiculously long trek through and across the Jura, including a long and harrowing descent into a deep gorge where the river Loue, now dry, would normally flow. Paula walked 49,000 steps, a personal best. We’ve been introduced to joints and muscles we never heard from whose sounds join the silent orchestra that accompanies us on our walk. Nothing that a good night’s rest won’t cure. Onans, a charming little burg, is the birthplace of Gustave Courbet, the 19th century French realism painter. We plan to visit the museum tomorrow
Site of the formidable Citadel, a 17th century fortress overlooking the entrance to the old city from on high at the mouth of the horseshoe river loop, equipped with 3 km of impenetrable ramparts, watch towers and ravelins. More timeless, is the city’s obsession with clocks. It boasts an astronomical clock that predicts lunar and solar eclipses, high and low tides of major ports, the location of the 6 planets known in the 1860s, when it was built, the time in world capitals, the location of major constellations, and much more. A physical manifestation of the horological theory of creation.
We have fallen in love with this town, the roman and medieval architecture, interesting museums (the unusual Museum of Resistance and Deportation), the food scene. It is a youthful city, host to one of France’s premier universities and a blooming nano-technology sector. A good place to rest and perhaps return to some day.
Up and down through wooded areas for the first half and then mostly suburbs and modern industrial parks until we reached city center. What a surprise! A stunningly beautiful old city of medieval and 17th -18th century buildings framed in a loop of the Doubs River with the Jura mountains in the background. It was a short walk so we arrive early enough for a late lunch on the banks of the river. A nice plate of carbonara for me and Napoletana for Paula. We taste an Italian influence in the food. We will rest here 2 nights to soak it in and do laundry
We are moving into the Jura mountains, with regular 300 m climbs and descents, walking along forest tracks in the shade of tall evergreens. While it is hot, the shade and cool breezes make for a pleasant stroll. We ran into Lois, our fellow traveler from Germany, who spent the night under the infinite stars, but needed to rest because his foot was bothering him. He is in his element so we are sure he will be ok. Even though we are in the middle of nowhere, we were able to land in a 4-star hotel with AC and a great restaurant, with one caveat: the restaurant is closed on Sunday. We will have to make up for it in Besancon which we will reach for a 2-day rest tomorrow.
3 days of solid walking through fields of now brown wheat and rape seed but the sunflowers are just coming out and should be in full bloom as we head further south. Every town, regardless of how small, has its church, town hall and memorial to the fallen. The churches are mostly closed with notices such as that Mass will be celebrated in August or September (presumably due to the shortage of priests). I am not sure what purpose the churches serve anymore, France is a thoroughly secular society, but the church steeples remain a great navigational aid.
In Dampierre-sur-Salon we were hosted by Helen and Christophe, a very charming couple who also run a catering business named Nam Viet, specializing in Vietnamese cuisine. We met Lois, a German walker on his way to Rome for the third time. He is a long walker, walks 3 months out of the year. For example, he recounted that when he was invited by a friend to a wedding in Portugal he just walked out the front door of his house in Aachen and walked to St Sebastian. He walks with 17 kg on his back, including a tent. His wife does not walk with him. “I like to sleep under infinite stars,” he said, “My wife likes 5 stars.” I asked him his destination today “I don’t know” he said, but I bet he is already several stops ahead of us. These long walkers are a crazy bunch.
We feel fortified entering week 6 following a lovely two night stay in Langres. When checking in to the hotel Edward asked if a room upgrade would be possible, adding “you know a room you would give to the Pope.” It worked, the room was wonderful, complete with Kleenex, writing paper, no Wi-Fi and a hairdryer.
The two night stays are built into the schedule for extra rest, and most importantly to do laundry. Our wardrobe was particularly ripe after nearly a week of rain and a 10 day gap in service. The laundromat wasn’t nearly as charming as the previous laundromats. The machines were located at a roadside gas station under a small awning next to the gas pumps. Unloading our suitcase and filing the machines seem to offer some entertainment value for the customers at the pumps. But job done, we raised our still warm clothing to our faces and were grateful they no longer smelled like ass.
I hope you are not growing tired of our morning selfies, they may seem repetitive – hats, glasses, big smile. But crazy as it may seem those smiles accurately reflect how we feel. By contrast, at the end of the day we stumble into our destination, frozen expressions, mild hallucinations and even stepping off the curb can extract what sounds like a Gregorian chant. But by morning we are restored, like lobotomy restored! We wake in the morning saying “hey that was awesome lets do it again!”
Or that smile could be the afterglow of blasting the song One More Day from Les Miserables.
Some have asked if we walk in silence or talk. We do both. Miraculously we still manage to amuse and entertain ourselves and each other.
Our digital subscriptions have allowed us to stay current on news and events. We discuss various political and economic topics along with plant and insect identification. There is a neon orange snail, the Limace, you have to see it and mistletoe is a parasitic plant! And then there are our musings and random speculations, for example, what is the statistical probability of a certain bug making it safely across the lane.
Many of the paths require we walk single file allowing for plenty of “me time.” This “me time” allows for consideration of pop culture topics like, Is Sarah Jessica Parker Parker brave for going gray and why did Brian Austin Green and Sharna Burgess have a hard time choosing a baby boy name. Tough stuff!
There is silence but it feels intentional, oddly, almost conversational.
And then there is this other thing we are doing – Many weeks ago we met a couple, a father and daughter. We were staying the night at the same guest house, they were conspicuously silent, and guarded. We learned that they are from Minnesota and when answered if they were walking to Rome, they offered different answers. Father, “absolutely walking to Rome” and the daughter “not really sure we are going to make it.” To this strangers eyes they seem determined but joyless. We have crossed paths three additional times, however only in passing, literally passing. Their privacy is intriguing, and lends nicely to the imagination. We have been creating a narrative for them. I say they are in the witness protection program and the walk is part of the plea deal. Edward, a far more practical storyteller, has the daughter living or studying in Europe and the walk went from a casual suggestion to reality. The reality has lead her to some buyers remorse. The truth will be revealed.
A wonderful walk along the Canal Entre Champagne and Bourgogne and around Lac de la Liez where we had lunch, a baguette and an orange under a weeping willow, but when the path took a turn into the wooded area along the banks of the river Saolon it became very muddy and covered with nettles and thorny bushes, so much so that in places the path was not visible. This slowed our pace down from our usual 22–24-minute mile to a 50 minute mile. We were happy to arrive at our Pilgirm’s B&B, flies and all, though we stayed clear of the shed with all the chainsaws.
We have been without internet for 3 days, so this is a catch up.
First, Langres for 2 days. What a great little town! A Roman/Medieval hilltop town defended by imposing ramparts. It is now a foodie haven, packed with people from the Netherlands and Belgium. We had some excellent meals. Langres is the birthplace of Diderot (Enlightenment philosopher) who was imprisoned for proclaiming “We should strangle the aristocracy with the entrails of priests.” He is also known for his Encyclopedia, kind of a Google of its day, where one of the first entries was an article on Atheism and that got him jail time as well. His statue stands resolutely across from the superb Cathedral, a Romanesque/Gothic structure of imposing proportions even though it sits in a crowded square. We did our laundry and rested up for the next stage.
Another day in the rain. We walk to the sound of rain hitting our rain hoods, hopping between mud puddles and scraping mud from our overweight, muddy shoes. The slippery slopes took us the bottom of Langres’ ramparts that appeared through the mist, like a medieval vision, 1500 feet above. We are looking forward to a day of rest. Pictures when we get internet.
Raining all day. We walk through the woods on slippery, muddy trails dotted with these orange snails that must love this weather because they are all out for their mid-day walk. We arrive at the hotel looking like we just showered with all our clothes on but with muddy boots. The church on the main square is open but not particularly inviting. All our clothes are damp and smell moldy. On days like this we look at each other and say “Whose idea was this anyhow?”
Walking the Via Francigena 