Today’s walk was easier from a distance perspective but demanding because of the heat under the relentless sun. Tree cover is rare over the endless corn, wheat and alfalfa fields. The only respite came as we visited the Cistercian monastery at Chiaravalle della Colomba, an impressive structure that still houses 12 monks.
Italy celebrates June 2 as Day of the Republic, the date in 1946 when Italy ceased being a monarchy and became a republic. It’s a young state. We arrive in Fidenza as it celebrated with flags, music, dancing (a break dancing competition) and overflowing cafes. Fidenza is, like so many others strung along the flat plain, a charming, well laid-out oasis of civilization. Its Cathedral is a 12th century Romanesque building which aside from communicating a somber Lombard look also houses the remnants of Saint Dannino in whose name the church was built. Legend has it St Dannino, a soldier in the Emperor’s service, was beheaded in 299 CE when he converted to Christianity, but he was able to overcome that slight, stood up, picked up his head and placed it where the church now stands. His skeletal remains in the crypt dutifully show him holding his head. Tomorrow Fornovo di Taro
Walking the Via Francigena 
The photo of the wrought iron and marble in the church is stunning — as is the story of the beheaded saint. Poppies! Part Todi, part Wizard of Oz…. Does this mark the completion of your first week? Onward!!
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I finally found a detailed interactive map of the Via Francigena at https://www.viefrancigene.org/en/resource/statictrack/tappa-18-da-fiorenzuola-fidenza/
They rate this stretch by foot as Medium difficulty. That may be, but the sun can take it out of you. I was moved by your candid assessment of your poor feet, Paula. I hope they get better with your ritual ministrations. Leg 19 to Foronovo is rated as Hard., as are the stretches to the Cisa Pass. On the other hand, there are some wonderful villages and woods,. It should be cooler in the that hilly region. Bring water. You’ll be crossing the Faro river I think, when you get to your near destination. The promised land awaits you.
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Here’s hoping it does cool off. You could probably identify the stages by the martyrs you encounter!
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There are many interactive maps, we use MapOut as we are walking. The Official Via Francigena map is also good. For Italy it can be found here https://www.viefrancigene.org/it/italia-il-percorso/#itnord. Thanks for following!
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Darling friends – happy travels and hope the rain soon stops! We send you much love from our hilltop in Umbriua where the sun is starting to peep out at last…. we hope for drier weather! much love and buon proseguimento xxx
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We just crossed into Tuscany, drier weather illusive. We miss our Umbria refuge and summer friends. Saluti a tutti!
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