P2 Stage 18 – Camaiore to Lucca 26km

For the first time we took the wrong turn and it was a doozy. Not just more kms and altitude gain, but walking across the face of a mountain that 2 years ago suffered a devastating fire. Stepping through the remaining detritus was apocalyptic, nightmarish. Deep rivulets were carved into the path exposing slippery rocks and muddy terrain. But we made it to Lucca to rest in this truly lovely town. And, of course, had a fabulous meal.

Yesterday on our way from Massa to Camaiore we were overcome by four Italians, Paula thinks they were firemen, who were marching at the pace of Roman legionnaires, Chum Chum Chum Chum on the gravel path. “Salve!” they shouted gleefully, “Dove andate?” In short order, as we were walking, we learned that one of them trained at Camp LeJune, North Carolina, Paula’s birthplace. “Buona passeggiata!” they shouted joyfuylly as they sped on under the hot sun. We also ran into a trio of Americans who, looking at us with what we took for condescension, greeted us with “Oh, you are luggage forwarding. ” Competitive pilgrimaging has come to the Via Francigena.