Pope to Puglia Teano to Pietramelara – 21km

Walking along the Appia Antica we pass a 1st century Roman bridge which other than being overgrown with greenery seems to be in fine working condition.  We pass ruins from various eras that testify to the long and tumultuous history of this area, invaded by everyone who had pretensions of Roman empire building: Lombards, Byzantines, Normans, Popes, France, Spain, the Holy Roman Emperors, Napoleon, Germans, and on and on.

At Pietramelara we ate unquestionably the best pizza we have ever tasted, cooked by Cosimo Chiudi, the pizzeria owner, who explained in great detail how he prepares the dough and selects the wide variety of supplements.  We also had a bottle of very fine local wine which we will be looking for when back in the US. 

One of the highlights of the day was the young man who came running out of his house to give us a book about the Via Francigena and then disappeared back into his house before we could thank him or even get his name. I guess the look the part of pilgrims though we feel more like wonderers.

10 thoughts on “Pope to Puglia Teano to Pietramelara – 21km

  1. Looking for purveyors of Coda di Volpe wine up pops Chair Bridge Cellars in McLean VA! Though they say they are sold out now. How joyous to feel at the end of the day that you’ve had the best pizza ever and a fabulous wine that you’d like again. La vita e bella! – Barbara

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  2. dearest Paula and Edward wishing you continued joy on your wonderful journey. I feel very jealous of you! How brilliant to be doing what you’re doing – enjoy every moment. Much love from Hannah and Parry xxxx

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  3. Looked up Fontana Vecchia Coda di Volpe white wine. Available in several wine shops in Atlanta. The pizza is not reproducible here. Speaking of food, I was thinking of the little plate of spaghetti all vongole (forget the real name) and it’s not enough calories if you are walking near 30 km a day. Mangia! 

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  4. Dear Paula and Edward Your walk it sounds delightful. I share your sentiments about the joy and importance of walking./ I began walking in early childhood in Germany through the wonderful forests with my family. It was a Sunday tradition, always followed by some sort of meal . You know, a wood hut in the forest. They were called wanderungs And believe it or not, frequently song was involved 😊cue. The von trapps

    I :/ Hugh and I have Enjoyed wonderful experiences during walking. Be strong, stay healthy, and most of all enjoy your rich blessings, Sandy

    3301 New New Mexico Ave, NW, Ste 210 tele: 202-363-9600 fax: 202–363-9601 Board Certified Dermatology http://www.DrSandraRead.com

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  5. What a lovely experience. Probably better to be identified as a pilgrim than to be one . Both to wander and to wonder are a wonderful combination brought to life with your commentaries.
    Ian x

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